After leaving Bryce Canyon we traveled through Staircase-Escalante National Monument via Scenic Highway 12.  We didn't know this area existed and really, it is extremely unique.  Miles and miles of stark, dry canyon land.  The earth cracked and blistered creating deep valleys and arid mesas.  We decided to stay a little longer, taking advantage of another free campsite in BLM land.

Here, in the middle of nowhere, we got our first flat tire.  A dead end town was nearby, but amenities (i.e. mechanic) were a lost cause.  Luckily, we had a good spare and a few cold beers.  We drove on that spare tire much longer than anticipated, but every town in sight was one town away from the nearest tire shop.

And of course it was a Friday night.  Shops reopen Monday morning.

In the meantime, we took advantage of our location.  We backtracked just a few miles Saturday morning and hike to the most beautiful, crystal clear, ice cold swimming hole and water fall.  The hike itself was relatively easy.  Six miles round trip on a fairly flat trail with a single obstacle... Sand.  Which, of course, made every step a little heavier, similar to hiking along a sandy beach.  It was also darn hot!

Joe and I both enjoyed a very refreshing swim.  Joe made it to the falls and back.  It was far too cold for me to be that brave.

Not too long after, we saw a few heads poke up from the top of the falls.  Repellers were getting ready to make the 126 foot trek down.  We stayed and watch the first two guys.  They were definitely excited!  

After a great morning of hiking and swimming we made our way to Capitol Reef National Park.  Another area new to us.  The 'reef' is essentially a giant fold in earth's crust that extends for nearly 100 miles.  We stayed for the weekend, knowing it wasn't safe to travel too far on a spare tire and had a really good time.  We enjoyed the scenic drive, a pretty difficult bike ride down a canyon and back, and camped for two nights.  

We also saw our first petroglyphs!  

We headed out of the park this morning and eventually made our way to a mechanic.  Got the tire fixed and had a beautiful drive out to Arches National Park.  We'll be exploring the park first thing tomorrow morning.  In the meantime, we're catching up on laundry, beers and computer time here in Moab, Utah.  

I'll start by apologizing about the length of these entries.  It has become harder and harder to find a spot to sit and write with wifi and an outlet.  

We've traveled a long way since the last we spoke.  After leaving Joshua Tree we headed north through the Mojave Desert towards Zion National Park.  The Mojave was HOT.  We followed a seemingly endless road that traveled through low desert with highs reaching 108 degrees.  At the risk of overheating and/or running out gas we seemed to find our way back up through high desert mountains and found a somewhat bizarre campsite in the middle of nowhere.  A fire had torched the area just a few years ago creating an eerie surrounding but otherwise beautiful.  Our night was topped with one of the most unique sunsets we have ever seen.  If I didn't know better (and for a moment I didn't), I would have thought a fire was emerging from the hills beyond.  

We also had our first Route 66 sighting before our entrance into the park! 

The next morning we packed up and headed out early.  We made our way to Zion National Park via Las Vegas where we stopped for an oil change.  It's a little odd being in Vegas without really being in Vegas.  Although tempted, we decided to save our sobriety and especially our money for the next stop.  

Zion is a Disneyland of national parks.  It was PACKED.  Park rangers were uptight, travelers were stressed and campsites were full.  We arrived on a Friday night around 6pm (go figure) and were escorted out because everything was booked.  After a moment of stress we decided it would be best if we pulled over for a beer.  

A little something we have just began to discover is BLM land (Bureau of Land Management).  BLM land is government owned land that is available to everyone.  What they call 'dispersed' camping is legal and free.  Essentially you are able to pull over onto service roads and find preexisting areas to camp (without the facilities of a campground, of course).  But hey, its FREE and completely awesome! 

We traveled about ten miles outside of the park that evening and discovered a perfect area to post up for the next three nights.  Other campers were around but no one was a bother.  We even had a river just steps away where we hung out for late afternoon swims to find relief from the heat.  

But like Yosemite, once you embrace the crowds you realize just why everyone has traveled miles to explore Zion.  It is breathtaking.  Giant red rock formations, deep canyons and crystal clear rivers. The drive through alone is stunning.  But get out on foot and you'll really crave more.  Keep in mind Joe's foot has yet to heal, so we were limited on hiking.  But we did do a portion of 'The Narrow's', a famous hike that leads you through tall and narrow canyons along the Virgin River.  Rather, through the river, which becomes the trail for the majority of the hike.  

We look forward to returning to complete the sixteen mile adventure through the canyons!

After a great few days we backtracked south and made our way to the north entrance of the Grand Canyon.  Again, campsites in the park were full.  But we inquired further and discovered the surrounding areas just outside the park boundaries is forestry land, different but treated the same as BLM land.  We traveled twenty miles along a dirt road and, by chance, came across a once in a lifetime camp site on the edge of the canyon.  Not only was the view spectacular, but there was absolutely no one around.  We stayed two nights.  

Instead of hiking this time around, we had a really cool mountain bike trail steps away from our spot.  It followed the rim of the canyon and dipped into forest here and there with steep ups and downs.  Being our first time trail riding, it was not only challenging but exciting!    

Joe also saw a rattlesnake about twenty feet from our tent.  Creepy!

Our next destination was back north to Bryce Canyon, Utah.  Seemingly endless narrow red rock 'hoodoos' poke up from the earth in an unbelievable way.  We hiked up and down through the famous Bryce Amphitheater where breathtaking views awaited every corner.  The glowing red rock against the bright blue sky was simply amazing.  We camped just outside the park, along the Tropic Reservoir, the first night, and in the park the next.  After a day of exploring the inner parts of the canyon, we spent the following morning cruising down the highway and enjoying the views from up top.  Bryce Canyon is a must for all!  

Without dragging this on any further, it's time for us to get back to the campsite.  Until next time...

Driving through Big Sur along Highway 1 is an absolute must for anyone traveling through California. The unforgiving twisty, steep, narrow highway is packed with endless, breathtaking views.  From jagged coastlines with royal blue waters crashing forcefully against the tall cliffs to lush, green forest that line the coast.  At about 90 miles of intensity, the drive is not for the faint of heart, but well worth the effort.

After driving directly west from Fresno to Monterey, we began our journey south back on Highway 1 and arrived to the northern 'entrance' of Big Sur in the early evening on a Saturday night.  We knew camping would be tight (the few camping sites are reserved well in advance come summer months).  But we were lucky!  We found a hike in spot about 3/4 of a mile from the highway in Andrew Molera State Park.  It was getting late and we were less than prepared but we pulled it together.  After gathering neccesary supplies (tent, sleeping bags, food, booze) we hiked in and had a great night!  The place was packed but at least we had a spot.  

The following morning we decided to take it easy.  We traveled about twelve miles before pulling over to Pfeiffer State Park.  We ended up staying there for two nights.  The first afternoon we explored the park, went on a great day hike and enjoyed biking around the campsite.  Pretty mellow.  After days of sunshine, although chilly, we woke the next morning to rain!  And it poured and poured.  So, what did we do?  Found ourselves at a local pub in the 'town' of Big Sur.  A few beers later we headed back to the campsite for a few more beers and a couple rounds of Rummy (which, by the way, I am MUCH better at than Joe).  

The sun was shinning the next morning and we continued on south.  We left the boundaries of Big Sur and found ourselves outside of San Luis Obispo in Montana de Oro State Park.  The park sits on a peninsula and is absolutely gorgeous.  We had the place to ourselves and camped for two nights.  The park is surrounded by coastal bluffs and low 'coastal scrub' forest.  The beach was stunning (Joe got in a little kite board practice) and the sunsets were magnificent.  We headed out for a twelve mile hike through the rolling hills and enjoyed the views from the top.  It was a very relaxing few days.

Our next destination was Los Angeles to visit a few familiar faces.  We made a pit stop in Santa Barbara, walked the pier and camped in Los Padres National Forest.  I could spend some serious time in that town.  

Our first stop in LA was a visit with Mariette and boyfriend, Britt, for cocktails at Moonshadow in Malibu.  The bar sat directly above the water and we walked in to a film crew filming on the patio (so California!).  We even saw dolphins!  It had been years since Mars and I have had a chance to catch up.  So much fun!  We enjoyed delicious fancy cucumber martini's and the boys had refreshing beers.  

After many laughs and saying our goodbyes we headed out in the heat of Friday night traffic in LA to make our way to Ryan's apartment in Hollywood.  It took about two and a half hours to make the short distance of thirty-three miles.  But we embraced the idea of traffic and found humor in driving the Dodge Mahal down Sunset Avenue amongst the car show that surrounded us.  

I have to start by saying I absolutely love my little brother.  It is always such a pleasure to visit California to see Ryan!  Previously living in Venice Beach, it was fun exploring his new hood of Hollywood.  I guess I didn't realize that people actually live and yes, work, in the neighborhood of Hollywood.  If fact, before this visit, I'm not certain I would consider it a 'neighborhood'.  But it is!  Just like anywhere else.  Ryan and his boyfriend, Lucas, live in a super charming apartment across from some of the original studios of Hollywood.  In fact, their building used to host celebrities as they were in town working on projects.  

Joe and I put on our 'city clothes' and headed out for a great Friday night out with Ryan and Lucas!  We kept dinner cheap and enjoyed delicious dogs at Papaya Dog.  The winner, in my opinion, was the chilly, cheese and 'side on top' (curly fries).  I like to describe food like this as 'slutty'.  It was very, VERY slutty.  We managed to get fairly inebriated that night.  

The street outside the studios I mentioned above was where we parked our beast.  And also where we slept that night.  Right there among other 'campers'. 

Joe, Ryan and I headed down to Huntington Beach the following evening for a family BBQ with cousins Kerry, John, Audrey, Kelly and Mike.  It had been YEARS since we have all seen each other. What a treat!  Great food, drink and conversation.  After an evening at the house, Kelly and Mike stayed to watch Audrey and us 'kids' went out for a night on the town.  We even danced!  

Kerry and John were heading out first thing Sunday morning to Mexico so we said our goodbyes after the bars.  Ryan was our first overnight guest in the Dodge Mahal that night. 

A huge thanks goes out to Mariette, Ryan, Lucas, Kerry and family for an unforgettable weekend in Los Angeles.  

We took our time leaving town on Sunday and made our way to San Bernardino National Forest and camped near Lake Arrowhead.  The next morning we headed directly to Joshua Tree by way of Big Bear Lake.  

Joshua Tree National Park is unlike anything we have ever seen.  The desert air is hot.  The landscape is sparse.  You are surrounded by giant rock formations that look so out of place it makes you want to know more.  Joshua trees scatter for as far as the eye can see.  Again, it's hot.  And not just hot but that mean kind of heat.  The kind that can consume your every ounce of being. 

And we loved every moment of being there.  Not to mention we had the place to ourselves.  And one of the most unique camping spots we have ever seen.  Our only downfall... Within an hour of our arrival, Joe was horsing around on the giant rocks that lined our campsite and landed wrong.  And he was hurt.  We knew it wasn't broken, or even sprained, but he received the kind of bruising on the bottom of his heal that left him immoble for twenty-four hours and with a serious limp there after.  So, instead of hiking and climbing as originally planned, we like to say we had Joshua Tree 'come to us' right there in our campsite.  We read a lot.  Enjoyed the sun and then enjoyed the shade even more.  Played lots of cards.  Took in the surreal surroundings.  We stayed for three nights.  

Joe was feeling a little better yesterday so we headed out exploring in the Mahal.  We didn't quite hit the trails but did find a few dirt roads that led to some really unique spots in the park.  From high desert to low desert, hot to really hot, we found beauty in every part of Joshua Tree and are looking forward to our return.  Next time with a pair of climbing shoes and a rope.  

After spending a breathtaking few days hiking and experiencing Yosemite, we headed straight for Fresno, CA.  Unfortunately we had to get a few things fixed up on the camper, which brought us to the next big city outside of Yosemite.  Fresno was hot as hell (pardon the language), dusty, dry and industrial.  We had the pleasure of camping in the Elite RV Repair Shop parking lot on night one (which, by the way, those guys were AWESOME!).  It might as well have been located on Aurora, South Tacoma Way or Sprague, depending on your town.  

It took the part needed an extra day to arrive (we got upgrades for the wait) so we ventured outside Fresno and camped at Millerton Lake.  At a 107 degrees and limited shade, the lake was a refreshing change.  Although (quote by me) "I'm TOO HOT to change into a swimsuit to swim".  It was that hot.

Well, we survived!  And I will admit that Fresno had some great Mexican food.  A few days in that kind of heat made us itching to get back to the coast.  We headed directly west to Monterey and are currently traveling south through Big Sur.  And it's absolutely gorgeous.  

We spent Memorial weekend in Mill Valley, just outside of San Francisco, catching up with one of Joe's oldest friends, Pk.  It was a blast!  Unfortunately we had just a short visit with Pk's wife, Laura, who ironically had a trip scheduled back to Seattle for her sister's birthday (happy birthday Rachel!).  

Pk and Laura live in an incredibly beautiful place.  Just at the base of Mt. Tamalpais and towering over the Muir Woods, with a sneak peak of San Francisco and the Golden Gate Bridge (from the right angle).   They live at the trail head.  We hiked miles all weekend long!  From deep into the woods where we found ourselves at a German bar that you can only get to by foot (amazing? absolutely.) to the highest peak of Mt. Tamalpais.

The view from the lookout at Mt. Tamalpais.  

Enjoying beer in the forest.  The bar was packed!  

A few pitchers later, we're ready to keep on trekking!  

It was such a pleasure to catch up with Pk and relax all weekend.  Did we make it to San Francisco?  Well... no, not this time around.  But that's ok, we know we'll be back!  Pk, thanks for your generous hospitality and make sure to give Taymu a giant hug for us.  

And then we were off to Yosemite!

Breathtaking.

Millions of people travel to Yosemite.  The park is packed (and for great reason).  Campsites are well booked in advanced and once you get there (if you're lucky enough to reserve a spot... we were) they are stacked on top of each other.  Not to mention the camp rangers.  Whoa!  Campfires must be out by 10pm sharp and all food containers (including anything that may resemble a wrapper or container inside your car) must be properly stored away for bear safety.  Makes sense, of course.  On our first night we stepped away from our smoldering fire (for what felt like five minutes) to allow it to simmer a little more before putting it out with water when suddenly we got the loudest knock on our camper door!  Cops?  No, it was a ranger scolding us for being irresponsible with our fire and for leaving a single beer bottle on the ground.  There were seriously about sixty other campers within fifty feet of us.  Nothing was going to happen.  She seemed to find great pleasure in threatening us with a $375 fine and reminding us of the rules.  She was very, VERY thorough.  

But after you get past the rules and crowds you understand exactly why everyone, from everywhere, travel in this direction.  It is absolutely jaw-dropping beautiful.  We started our adventure with a fourteen mile hike up to 9,926 feet called Clouds Rest.  At 1000 feet above Half Dome, you felt as if you were on top of the world.  The views were outstanding and much earned.  And unlike the shorter hikes beginning in the valley, we had the place to ourselves.  

That being said, views from the valley were equally stunning.

Our good friend, Adam Fream, began his three day climb up the face of Half Dome while we were in town.  We unfortunately were unable to see him off, but it was great fun knowing he was climbing that beast while we were hiking around it.  We look forward to hearing his stories!  

The next day, we started from the valley and did a very popular hike (shorter, but equally as challenging) up to Nevada Falls.  We gained about 1900 feet in 3.5 miles.  Again, gorgeous!  

Yosemite was one of those destinations we knew we had to see but were skeptical to stay because of the crowds.  We came, we hiked, we wanted more.  Embrace the crowds and get off the beaten track and you will be planning your next visit as we are right now.  

We love Bend.  Period.  Hip town, cool people, great breweries, gorgeous landscape... It was hard to leave.  We camped, FREE, for two nights along the Cascade Lakes Highway.  The third night was spent at a great campsite along the Deschutes River 30 miles south of Bend, where Oregon's largest Ponderosa Pine is located!  

After a great weekend of hiking and biking, we headed towards the California coast, with a small detour to Crater Lake.  It was windy, snowy and damn cold.  So, our visit was brief but well worth the effort.  

Our next three days were spent in the Redwoods, which was beyond magnificent.  We arrived late(ish) the first night and tucked away for the evening deep in the Jedediah Smith State Park.  It felt like a fairy tale.  Trees were ENORMOUS and the moss was thick.  It was dark, yet only green, damp and lush.  

We woke early and continued on south to find ourselves at Gold Bluffs Beach Campground.  It was a six mile rugged, unpaved, steep, windy road to arrive (RV's and trailers prohibited), which of course translates into super awesome.  We set up shop and headed out on foot for an incredible hike.  Our loop began with a mile or so of coastal hiking, followed by lush fern valleys and old growth forest.  We saw it all!  After returning, the rain grew heavy so we cozied up in our camper with a bottle of whiskey, a deck of cards and some good music.  It was a perfect day.  

The next day we continued south and drove through the Avenue of Giants.  As the name suggests, the trees were HUGE.  We attempted to get a close up of the Dodge Mahal next to one of the giants for a comparison.  

We kept on driving that day and found ourselves halfway between the Redwoods and San Francisco, camping off Highway 1.  The sunset that evening was breathtaking.  

Highway 1 is a stunning route.  And Northern California is gorgeous.  After about three days of making our way down the coast, via the steepest/windiest/zero shoulder and room for error route, we arrived to PK and Laura's!  We are looking forward to spending Memorial weekend with a few great friends!  

After a few great days of generous home cookin', truck fixin' and family catch-n-upin', we're OFFICIALLY on the road!  Although I have to say, we were getting mighty comfortable in good ol' Mica, WA...

LOTS of laughs...

Playing with Milly...

Catching up with Grandpa... 

We even attended a FHS district track meet, for old times sake!  

But after a week, it was time for us to hit the road. 

We headed south with the goal of exploring Hells Canyon, North America's deepest gorge.  Day one on the road led us to Lewiston, Idaho, where the winds were high and the road was steep!  

After making a much needed pit stop in town for a refreshing beer, we continued south to Fields Spring State Park in the furthest SE corner of Washington.  Campsites were modest and we had the place to ourselves.  With the exception of John, of course, a hilarious old guy who has traveled all over the country in a camper and found much joy in checking out the Dodge Mahal!

After a great nights sleep, we made the trek on down to the southern tip of Hells Canyon, via the town of Joseph, OR, to discover the last road needed to finalize our journey was still snowed in.  So we turned around, back tracked a little, and headed east.  Although we didn't quite make our destination, the drive alone was STUNNING!  Windy roads and deep, narrow canyons certainly made an impression and we will be back!  

We found ourselves in Bend, OR for a great weekend of relaxing and exploring.  The drive through eastern Oregon has led us through steep canyons, high desert, alpine forests, mountainous landscapes and endless, rustic cattle ranches.  It was absolutely gorgeous.  If you find yourself in eastern Oregon, head off the main road and you won't be disappointed.   

On another note, we've got the Dodge Mahal lookin' classy! 

Until next time.