Sunday, September 16, 2012

I'm sitting in a cafe in the Hampton's remembering Florida.  Where does the time go?!  I have a TON to catch up on.  But first, Florida.

Did I mention putting on some serious miles in my last post?  Because Atlanta to Key West was one heck of a drive!  Especially in the rain.


We broke it up over three nights and four days to make it a little more enjoyable.  Yet never-ending interstates, strip-mall after strip-mall and rain-so-hard we had to pull over on the highway (more than once) to wait it out made us question the whole enjoyable notion.  Although as night two approached, we pulled into a state park about an hour south of Tampa, near the coast.  The sun had finally come out and we were finally able to relax.  After a few cocktails at a local bar on the docks, we enjoyed a quiet (and hot) evening at our campsite.  We felt like we were in a jungle.  Finally, this felt like Florida.




The next day we continued south and spent the early part of the afternoon in Naples, a great beach town right off the Gulf of Mexico.  After an oil change and lunch, we headed to the beach and saw dolphins within minutes.  




Naples was our turning point so from here we headed east and eventually south through the Everglades.  Episodes of heavy rain, moments of sunshine and even a few alligator sightings made the drive feel like a true adventure.  We made it all the way down to the Everglades National Park where the rain had eventually stopped and evening had approached. 




Driving into the Everglades National Park in the early evening during off-season was a little erie.  Not a soul on the road and by the time we made it to the campsite the sun had nearly set.  Only one other camper resided in the vast, overgrown campground.  Picnic tables were stacked one-on-top-of-the-other, bathrooms were locked and grass was nearly three feet tall.  It was hot as hell and the mosquitos and dragonflies were so thick it was unbearable.  No level of OFF! could stimulate an ease to the discomfort.  But lucky for us, the electric hook-ups were operating.  So we plugged in, turned the AC on high, cracked open a few beers and waited it out until the morning.  




We made a few stops on our drive out and were lucky enough to catch sightings of many red-shouldered hawks and even a barred owl (very cool)!  Not to mention the electric outlets the night before… You couldn't open one without at least a few frogs, a lizard and a creepy spider hanging out.  










And now, finally, it was time to head to Key West!  We were so excited.  It felt like a vacation within our vacation (how spoiled are we?).  




The Florida Keys are a series of tiny islands stretching for nearly 120 miles from the southern tip of Florida.  Key West is the furthest south.  It took us about three hours to drive from the very first key to Key West.  And within minutes, you felt as if you were in a different country.  Crystal clear, turquoise, calm waters surround you on all sides.  The sun is intense and the air is heavy.  Locals move on island time and chickens run the streets. 


After checking into our rather simple campsite (where chickens AND iguanas ran freely) we grabbed our bikes and rode the three miles to town.  




Like most tourists do when first arriving to Key West, we headed straight for Duval Street.  For a Tuesday night, the street was PACKED!  And not just busy, but packed packed.  Open-aired bars and restaurants lined the streets.  Live music played from nearly every corner.  Vacationers were decked out and ready to party.  It was a bit overwhelming at first, but like always, after a few cocktails you fit right in.  We had a blast!  


 


 




The next few days were spent biking into town, soaking up the sun, getting kite boarding tips from a local (unfortunately it wasn't windy enough to give it a shot), drinking mojitios, snorkeling, touring Hemingway's house and eating delicious Cuban food and seafood.




















Meanwhile, Tropical Storm Isaac was developing a few hundred miles away.  


Life continued as normal for the locals of Key West.  Tourists even remained calm.  In fact, NO ONE had spoke of or rather mentioned the threat of Issac.  Family and friends would call and question our safety (thank you!) but to be honest, the threat was virtually nonexistent.  Don't get me wrong, the weather report remained on at all times in bars and cafes, but no one actually paid attention.  A joke would come up now and then, but nobody was serious.  


It wasn't until day four of being on Key West when we finally saw someone boarding up their windows.  Huh?  Somebody actually is taking this seriously.  Hmm... 


The weather had began to change the night before.  Storm clouds developed, growing heavy and dark.  Rain came and went.  Wind even began to pick up… a little.  We knew it was time for us to make our way back towards the mainland.  We drove half way and camped at a state park on Long Key.  Our campsite was about eight feet from the ocean.  There was absolutely nobody around.  Perhaps the storm had caused everyone to stay far, far away.  We had the place to ourselves.  








The heavy clouds came and went, and the rain followed.  It wasn't until late that night when the storm really picked up.  Wind whipped around our camper and rain came down in buckets throughout the night.  We were worried, but we also knew it was late on Friday and the potential hurricane was to attack on Sunday. 






 We woke first thing next morning (Saturday) to a park ranger hollering at us from outside the camper.  The wind still rattled.  It was time for us to go.  The park was closing and the island had issued a 'visitors evacuation' for all travelers who were able to drive out of the Keys.  We stayed calm.  The forecast hadn't changed, and anything serious was to occur the following day.  It rained incredibly hard that morning and took us hours to exit the islands.  


As we know, Hurricane Isaac didn't develop until after blowing over the Keys as a tropical storm.  Perhaps the locals were right.  They have been through this before.  Many, many times before.  But for us, it was a first, and it was time for us to continue north.  For it wasn't fear of our personal safety, but rather fear of destroying our camper and having to call it quits on such a grand adventure.  We made the right choice to get out of dodge that day.  Besides, we may have never returned home if it weren't for Isaac.  The Keys were that spectacular. 


We continued north on the east coast of Florida as fast as possible.  After exiting the Keys that Saturday morning, we made our way to Miami by afternoon and had an unfortunately quick visit.  We wanted to stay longer, but the storm seemed to follow and the wind and rain grew heavier.  



It wasn't until the next day when we were finally able to relax.  As the storm intensified, we traveled further and further away from it. 


We made a few great stops as we traveled north.  Including, Saint Augustine.  Not only is Saint Augustine a super cute town, it is also home of the Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, originally a Spanish fort.   






Our stay in Florida ended just north of Jacksonville, where we camped off the ocean and witnessed an incredible sunset.  




We have traveled a long, long way since Florida.  I'll be working on my east coast post very soon!  My apologies go out to our folks who have been patiently waiting for our long overdue updates.     











Thursday, August 23, 2012

Whoa... We have A LOT to catch up on!  

As soon as we crossed the Texas/Louisiana border, we knew we were in the south.  Humidity became thick as butter, accents grew heavier and insects began to swarm.  The heat took hold in a different way than in the southwest.  It was a relentless, sticky, sweaty mess with little relief.  But hey, all part of the adventure... right?

Our first night camping in Louisiana was surreal.  Once we embraced the discomfort, for lack of a better word, we loved it!  Bayous, swamps and alligator warnings all within a few miles of the Texas border.



We didn't actually see an alligator this time, but we did catch sight of a ton of turtles!



One of the things we were most excited about in Louisiana was making stops at local seafood shacks (as they call it) for blue crab and oysters.  Our oyster knife is one of the few extraneous kitchen items we actually packed.  We hopped off Interstate 10 and took the long way to New Orleans and found exactly what we were looking for.



We did our own crab boil right there at the campsite!  It was mighty delicious... And extremely cheap.



The next day was spent exploring New Orleans.  We parked our beast on the south side of the Mississippi River and took a free passenger ferry into the city.  It rained incredibly hard that afternoon.  The kind of rain that floods the streets in minutes.  We were drenched!  So what do you do?  Run to the next bar for temporary relief, of course.



We began at ACME Oyster House, a place Joe has had on his mind since watching Adam Richman on Man Vs. Food devour DOZENS of oysters.  By no means did we compete with Adam's accomplishment, but we did enjoy our fare share.  The place was PACKED (yes, very touristy, but we loved it).  The grilled oysters were also phenomenal.


An earlier bartender recommended the oyster house across the street from ACME, where the oysters were considerably cheaper without the frill of a tourist destination.  So we went there, also, and enjoyed more oysters.  A 79 year old man shucked them behind the counter and served them to you right there, one at a time, on the bar top.  No plate.  No ice.  Just cheap, local perfection.



After we got our fill on oysters, it was time to hit Bourbon Street.  For a Thursday afternoon, the streets were packed (finally, the rain had stopped).  It took a few stops before finding the perfect bar with awesome live music!  And we stayed for a few hours.



We then continued to tour the city.








After recovering from a rather unfortunate hangover the following morning, we stopped at another seafood market.  We bought jumbo shrimp and oysters and had a rather long, enjoyable conversation with a local about the government.  


We then toured one of New Orleans famous cemetery's.


All in all, we had a really great time in New Orleans.  We even caught up with an old friend and coworker of Joe's at Kells, Garrett!  

New Orleans is one of those gritty yet beautiful, threatening yet comforting cities to really fall in love with.  We could have spent some serious time here.  But, as always, it was time to move on.  

And so we headed north.

Driving through Mississippi to reach Memphis was surprisingly beautiful.  We took a highway called the Natchez Trace Parkway that let through gorgeous Mississippi country for nearly 160 miles.  We stopped here and there to hike around a swamp or check out a meadow, eventually making our way to Tupelo, MS, where Elvis happened to be born.  

Of course we had to make a stop and check it out. 


There were some SERIOUS fanatics there!  (it was a bit overwhelming)


On our way to Memphis the next day, we stopped in the college town of Oxford, MS and had some extremely satisfying southern cooking at a place called AJAX.  The town itself was super cute.


We made it to Memphis, drove straight to Graceland, and then kept on driving.  Without seeming disrespectful, the place was PACKED and beyond expensive and honestly, not our style.  So we kept on driving and found ourselves at Central BBQ enjoying the BEST BBQ we have had on this trip!  Memphis BBQ has something to be proud of.  The pork ribs were beyond outstanding.  


Since we skipped out on Graceland, we had to see Sun Records.  


Memphis is pretty rough around the edges, so we enjoyed our afternoon and decided to move on towards Nashville.  After camping about 30 miles outside of Nashville, we drove in town the following morning and had an absolute blast.  

Live honky tonk at Tootsies was the highlight.  We found this little gem and stayed all afternoon.  





We didn't spend nearly enough time in Nashville, but after Austin and New Orleans our wallet needed a break.  We are definitely looking forward to getting back here soon!

After days, or rather weeks, in the city we were looking forward to getting away for a few days in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park.  


But of course we had to make a quick stop in Knoxville, Tennessee.  What a great small town!


We camped for two nights in the Smokies and did a rather challenging hike to burn off some of the southern cookin' we have been enjoying!  





We LOVED Tennessee.  From here, we headed back south with Key West as our destination.  We made a pit stop in Atlanta for Gladys Knight's fried chicken and waffles (darn good!) before putting on some serious miles.  

Until next time...  







































Tuesday, August 7, 2012

Did I mention how excited we were for BBQ, Shiner Bock's and country music?!  Because we got it ALL (plus some!) in San Antonio and Austin.  



Being one of Texas' oldest cities, San Antonio had quite the charm.  Very old buildings, narrow roads and a largely Hispanic influence, San Antonio is one of those towns you slowly fall in love with.  On the surface, it seems a little gritty.  A little day-in-and-day-out, go-to-work-to-pay-the-bills kind of city.  We didn't stay for very long, rather an extended afternoon, but the charm grew on us and I can imagine taking a real liking to what surrounded us.  

We had some great Tex-Mex at Mi Tierra, recommended by good friends Ruben and Beth!  

We toured the Alamo.


It's amazing how it sits right there, smack-dab in the middle of the city.  

Perhaps the highlight of San Antonio, although rather touristy, was the River Walk.  Here, bars and cafes line the river about ten feet below the street, an oasis allowing an 'almost' break from the intense summer heat.  


We camped about 40 miles north of San Antonio and took advantage of a great afternoon floating in the river the next day.  


We headed up to Austin later that afternoon.  Instead of making our way directly into town, we made a  satisfying pit stop at The Salt Lick, for some real Texas BBQ.  And damn, it was GOOD!  Here, open pits smoked massive amounts of meat for what seemed like days.  We ate so much we laughed that we were drunk on BBQ!  



Oh, and it was BYOB.  Awesome.  

We stayed in Austin for five nights.

A HUGE thanks goes out to Darin for an intoxicating (um, literally) amount of recommendations of your hometown! 


We explored East 6th St, South Congress, South First, what felt like West Austin, Rainey Street, just to name a few.  We drank at dive bars, saw live music whether random or planned (thanks again Billy Joe for recommending The Preservation at The Parish!).  Hey, I even rode a mechanical bull!  Pictures will NOT be posted...  

We ate AMAZING street food.  BBQ, BBQ, tacos, more BBQ.  




We ALMOST bought new boots and cowboy hats (if only in our budget!).  


Good thing we brought our own boots.  


We took a rather refreshing dip in Barton Springs and cooled off from the heat.


We even ran into an old Seattle friend!  Caitlin, it was SO GREAT (and so completely random) to see you in Austin!  


Joe and I can honestly say that we LOVE Austin.  Yes, many compare Austin's scene to Seattle, as they're alike in so many ways.  But Austin has a southern charm missed by its northern counterpart and we cannot wait to make it back!